


Bold would be another 'B' I'd add to the title of this post if I hadn't already overused that particular letter. Bold shouldn't be the overriding description of the day but Dan's confident approach is certainly what got us underway at the fantastic gritstone crag of Upper Craig y Merched today. The Meirionnydd climbing guidebook is a great piece of work, but it's always worth bearing in mind that until publication many of the routes listed probably hadn't received a second ascent, some I'm sure still haven't. It's also prudent to consider that sixteen years after their inception the lines mightn't still have the in-situ peg or tape runners mentioned in the text. With this in mind and with the additional factor that until the sun swung round onto this remote south west facing crag it was flippin freezing (a couple of rare frosts by the way) I quietly suggested that an abseil inspection mightn't be considered too underhand. Dan's clearly made of stronger moral fibre however and wasted little time in starting up
Stockholm Express (HVS,5a). Holding the ropes I watched on in no little awe as Dan coolly crept his way up this steep and sustained line. I say holding the ropes but that's not strictly true, the first piece of gear was at nigh on half height. The point came when I figured that spotting had become a bit useless and concentrated on moving the sharper rocks from the landing instead. Following the line only served to increase my respect for Dan's efforts and raised the level of apprehension I was feeling about it being my turn next. Tieing onto the front of the rope usually sharpens things a little and in only a few moves along the rising fault line of
Burnt Umber (HVS,5b) I was starting the feel a whole lot better about things. The crux pull over the terminating roof cost me a bit of skin but was certainly a fair trade for that quality of climbing. Attuned to the rock with the sun on our backs Dan put up another steady ascent on
Chandrapur (HVS,5b) and all I had to do was enjoy the moves as I followed.

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